Putting the LED's in the buttons

Most new LED's are all clear so it's easy to confuse them. 
These are all a different color.

Use the Dremmel and make a hole in the center so the LED fits snug.  Not too deep or you'll cut into the white part that's the letter or all the way through the button. Make it deep enough so when the LED is in and the leads bent over it's flush or just below those 4 little posts.

Then make two more small holes on the side so the leads 
can poke through.

Putting the LED in the button is a pain, you'll need to pre-bend the leads.....then put them through the little holes first and just finagle it in there. DON'T FORGET WHICH IS THE ANODE AND WHICH IS THE CATHODE. Put a dab of solder or use a marker on the ANODE to tell them apart. The ANODE is the long lead, that's the + side. The CATHODE is GND.

Trim the leads and bend as necessary.

Hacking up the controller


Use the Dremel and remove just enough plastic so the LED leads don't bind the movement of the button.

 They even fit!

 The HARDEST part - After wiring all of the buttons...place them in the controller. 

 This is the hardest to do because the wires will want to pull on the buttons. There's no real "easy" way to put all those wires in the little space available

 Just experiment till you get a good spot where the wire does not hinder the movement of the button too much. Keep the wire pushed as far down in between the button shafts as possible. After there all in place solder all of the CATHODE wires to GND and the ANODES of the BLUE and GREEN to the 100ohm resistor, the RED and YELLOW solder to the 220ohm resistor. Then solder both resistors to5 volt line in the controller. 
*NOTE If you are using all white LED's you solder all four wires to the 100ohm resistor and there is no 220ohm.

 Putting it all back together is not really a picnic either.  Keep a long skinny screwdriver handy when putting it back together. It will help in shoving the little wires back in that want to keep getting in-between the controller halves.

 Drilling the holes for the L.E.D's is probably the hardest part because there's the chance of tearing up the top of the controller if you slip.

There wasn't really any good angle for me to take a picture of the holes, but you should get the general idea by looking at where the L.E.D's are mounted. The easiest way to drill the holes is from the top of the controller through the button holes. Don't worry about what the L.E.D's look like, we'll get to that in a minute.
 

 Make sure that you keep the holes below the tabs that the buttons sit on. The one missing you may need to remove completely to get the L.E.D to sit in there right. I removed mine because after the hole was made there wasn't much left to it anyway, and it won't hurt being gone. Test fit the L.E.D's to make sure the holes are just big enough.

 Now on to prepping the L.E.D's

Start with your brand new L.E.D

 then cut the top off that thing, I used a sanding disc on the Dremel, but sandpaper and a little work will get you the same results.  I scuffed the sides up a little also to get more of a diffused light from the L.E.D (This is not necessary and really doesn't make a huge difference)

 Now that we have the L.E.D's trimmed, let's prep them for being installed.

 You can install both of them in the controller to get a rough idea of where the leads will meet. Trim the one L.E.D and solder them together (Make SURE you solder ANODE to ANODE and CATHODE to CATHODE or you'll have one that won't light)

 Now attach your wires to the leads and stuff them on in there.  If you made the holes a little too big or you're just having problems getting them to stay in place a few dabs of Hot Glue will keep them in there. It’s also a good idea to place a dab of Hot Glue in between the leads to keep them from touching each other.

 Solder your wires, Cathode to GND and Anode to your 100ohm resistor, then the 5v line.

 Reassemble your controller and you should be ready to enjoy the light in the day

 or at night